Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Happy Thanksgiving


The First ThanksgivingIn 1621, the Plymouth colonists and Wampanoag Indians shared an autumn harvest feast which is acknowledged today as one of the first Thanksgiving celebrations in the colonies. This harvest meal has become a symbol of cooperation and interaction between English colonists and Native Americans. Although this feast is considered by many to the very first Thanksgiving celebration, it was actually in keeping with a long tradition of celebrating the harvest and giving thanks for a successful bounty of crops. Native American groups throughout the Americas, including the Pueblo, Cherokee, Creek and many others organized harvest festivals, ceremonial dances, and other celebrations of thanks for centuries before the arrival of Europeans in North America.

Historians have also recorded other ceremonies of thanks among European settlers in North America, including British colonists in Berkeley Plantation, Virginia. At this site near the Charles River in December of 1619, a group of British settlers led by Captain John Woodlief knelt in prayer and pledged "Thanksgiving" to God for their healthy arrival after a long voyage across the Atlantic. This event has been acknowledged by some scholars and writers as the official first Thanksgiving among European settlers on record. Whether at Plymouth, Berkeley Plantation, or throughout the Americas, celebrations of thanks have held great meaning and importance over time. The legacy of thanks, and particularly of the feast, have survived the centuries as people throughout the United States gather family, friends, and enormous amounts of food for their yearly Thanksgiving meal.

What Was Actually on the Menu? What foods topped the table at the first harvest feast? Historians aren't completely certain about the full bounty, but it's safe to say the pilgrims weren't gobbling up pumpkin pie or playing with their mashed potatoes. Following is a list of the foods that were available to the colonists at the time of the 1621 feast. However, the only two items that historians know for sure were on the menu are venison and wild fowl, which are mentioned in primary sources. The most detailed description of the "First Thanksgiving" comes from Edward Winslow from A Journal of the Pilgrims at Plymouth, in 1621:

"Our harvest being gotten in, our governor sent four men on fowling, that so we might after a special manner rejoice together after we had gathered the fruit of our labors. They four in one day killed as much fowl as, with a little help beside, served the company almost a week. At which time, among other recreations, we exercised our arms, many of the Indians coming amongst us, and among the rest their greatest king Massasoit, with some ninety men, whom for three days we entertained and feasted, and they went out and killed five deer, which they brought to the plantation and bestowed upon our governor, and upon the captain, and others. And although it be not always so plentiful as it was at this time with us, yet by the goodness of God, we are so far from want that we often wish you partakers of our plenty."

Did you know that lobster, seal and swans were on the Pilgrims' menu?

Seventeenth Century Table Manners: The pilgrims didn't use forks; they ate with spoons, knives, and their fingers. They wiped their hands on large cloth napkins which they also used to pick up hot morsels of food. Salt would have been on the table at the harvest feast, and people would have sprinkled it on their food. Pepper, however, was something that they used for cooking but wasn't available on the table.

In the seventeenth century, a person's social standing determined what he or she ate. The best food was placed next to the most important people. People didn't tend to sample everything that was on the table (as we do today), they just ate what was closest to them.

Serving in the seventeenth century was very different from serving today. People weren't served their meals individually. Foods were served onto the table and then people took the food from the table and ate it. All the servers had to do was move the food from the place where it was cooked onto the table.

Pilgrims didn't eat in courses as we do today. All of the different types of foods were placed on the table at the same time and people ate in any order they chose. Sometimes there were two courses, but each of them would contain both meat dishes, puddings, and sweets.

More Meat, Less VegetablesOur modern Thanksgiving repast is centered around the turkey, but that certainly wasn't the case at the pilgrims's feasts. Their meals included many different meats. Vegetable dishes, one of the main components of our modern celebration, didn't really play a large part in the feast mentality of the seventeenth century. Depending on the time of year, many vegetables weren't available to the colonists.

The pilgrims probably didn't have pies or anything sweet at the harvest feast. They had brought some sugar with them on the Mayflower but by the time of the feast, the supply had dwindled. Also, they didn't have an oven so pies and cakes and breads were not possible at all. The food that was eaten at the harvest feast would have seemed fatty by 1990's standards, but it was probably more healthy for the pilgrims than it would be for people today. The colonists were more active and needed more protein. Heart attack was the least of their worries. They were more concerned about the plague and pox.

Surprisingly Spicy Cooking - People tend to think of English food at bland, but, in fact, the pilgrims used many spices, including cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, pepper, and dried fruit, in sauces for meats. In the seventeenth century, cooks did not use proportions or talk about teaspoons and tablespoons. Instead, they just improvised. The best way to cook things in the seventeenth century was to roast them. Among the pilgrims, someone was assigned to sit for hours at a time and turn the spit to make sure the meat was evenly done.

Since the pilgrims and Wampanoag Indians had no refrigeration in the seventeenth century, they tended to dry a lot of their foods to preserve them. They dried Indian corn, hams, fish, and herbs.

Dinner for Breakfast: Pilgrim Meals:The biggest meal of the day for the colonists was eaten at noon and it was called noonmeat or dinner. The housewives would spend part of their morning cooking that meal. Supper was a smaller meal that they had at the end of the day. Breakfast tended to be leftovers from the previous day's noonmeat.

In a pilgrim household, the adults sat down to eat and the children and servants waited on them. The foods that the colonists and Wampanoag Indians ate were very similar, but their eating patterns were different. While the colonists had set eating patterns—breakfast, dinner, and supper—the Wampanoags tended to eat when they were hungry and to have pots cooking throughout the day.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

The Blues and Politics: The Lee Atwater Story



Consider Lee Atwater, politico. Atwater was also a musician. He briefly played backup guitar for Percy Sledge during the 1960s and frequently played with bluesmen such as B.B. King. Atwater recorded an album with King and others on Curb Records in 1990 entitled Red Hot & Blue. He once sat in with Paul Shaffer and his band on Late Night with David Letterman.

As a teenager in Columbia, South Carolina, Atwater played guitar in a rock band, The Upsetters Revue. His special love was R&B music. Even at the height of his political power he would often play concerts in clubs and church basements, solo or with B.B. King, in the Washington, D.C. area. He released an album called Red, Hot And Blue on Curb Records, featuring Carla Thomas, Isaac Hayes, Sam Moore, Chuck Jackson, and B.B. King, who got co-billing with Atwater. Robert Hilburn wrote about the album in the April 5, 1990 issue of the Los Angeles Times: "The most entertaining thing about this ensemble salute to spicy Memphis-style '50s and '60s R&B is the way it lets you surprise your friends. Play a selection such as 'Knock on Wood' or 'Bad Boy' for someone without identifying the singer, then watch their eyes bulge when you reveal that it's the national chairman of the Republican Party…Lee Atwater."


The new PBS Frontline edition titled boogie man: the Lee Atwater Story paints him as a guy like Robert Johnson, a man who sold his soul to the devil. And if it is to be believed, I would say that he lived the blues too.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

BB King Rolls Thru Texas

B.B. King is on our vid stream, on our CD shelf, and of course, on the road-- this week in the Lone Star State:

11/15 Thackerville, OK
11/16 Dallas
11/18 Corpus Christi
11/20 San Antonio
11/21 Houston
11/22 Houston

So with that in mind let's check out this video classic of B.B. and Slowhand covering John Hiatt's Riding With the King:







Summertime has passed, but there are still great blues festivals going on across the country! Head over to BluesFestivalGuide.com and find one near you!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Who Invented the Charcoal Briquette?




Ellsworth B. A. Zwoyer of Pennsylvania patented a design for charcoal briquettes in 1897. After World War One, the Zwoyer Fuel Company built charcoal briquette manufacturing plants in the United States with plants in Buffalo, NY and Fall River, MA.

There are stories circulating that Henry Ford invented the very first briquette in 1920 with the help of Thomas Edison. However, the 1897 patent obviously predates this and Ford and Edison both knew Zwoyer.

Ford is the man who popularized the gas-powered car in America and invented the assembly line for automobile manufacturing. Ford created a briquette from the wood scraps and sawdust from his car factory. E.G. Kingsford bought Ford's briquette and placed it into commercial production.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Friday, November 7, 2008

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Red Hot & Blue Holiday



Offer valid at participating restaurants

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

“My Babe” Little Walter (Checker, 1955)


My Babe was a No. 1 rhythm & blues hit for Chicago blues singer-harmonica player Little Walter in 1955 on the Checker record label. With Robert Jr. Lockwood’s memorable guitar riffs propelling the arrangement, songwriter-producer Willie Dixon took an old spiritual with the line “This train is bound for glory, this train” and reworked it as “My babe don’t stand no cheatin’, my babe.” During the same period, Ray Charles had also brought gospel into the blues with I Got a Woman, as part of the process that eventually led to what we know as “soul music.” Walter had recorded an early attempt at My Babe in 1954, but the song only came to fruition when Walter went back into the studio with Dixon, Lockwood and drummer Fred Below on January 25, 1955.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Mr. Brown's Pork Butt Recipe


This is for all of you who want to try this at home. We have tracked down the famous "Mr. Brown's Pork Butt Recipe" This recipe is the Holy Grail to those who compete in sanctioned competitions across the country. Of course, it needs to be made with Red Hot & Blue Dry Rub Seasoning.


Summary
- Purchase boneless or bone-in pork butts.
- Trim excess fat.
- Apply half of the Red Hot & Blue Dry Rub Seasoning and refrigerator overnight, then apply more rub just before cooking.
- Cook at 225-250°F to an internal temperature of 190°F.
- Baste with Southern Sop during cooking (optional).
- Wrap in aluminum foil and hold in an empty ice chest until ready to serve.
- Pull meat and serve with barbecue sauce on the side.

"The Renowned Mr. Brown", from the classic book Smoke & Spice by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison, is one of the definative recipes for pork butt. I think you'll like it, too, especially if you like black pepper, because this recipes uses a lot of it!


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Select And Trim The Pork Butts

Purchase whole, untrimmed pork butts, either bone-in or boneless. To maximize bark formation (that dark, chewy, delicious outside meat) during barbecuing, trim off the fat cap, any false cap, and other large, easily removed pockets of fat from the roast. Don't worry, there will be plenty of fat left in the meat to keep it moist during cooking.

If using boneless roasts, you may wish to tie them up with kitchen twine so they retain a compact shape and cook more evenly.

For this cook, I purchased four whole, untrimmed, boneless pork butts (two per Cryovac package) from my local warehouse store. One package weighed 16.13 pounds, the other 15.94 pounds, for a total of 32.07 pounds. After trimming excess fat, removing false caps from each roast, and trimming away other unsightly bits, I was left with a total of 25.07 pounds of meat--a loss of 7 pounds (22%) of fat.

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Prepare And Apply The Rub

There's only one rub recipe for pork butt. It's Red Hot & Blue Dry Rub Seasoning and it can be purchased here.

Since I had four pork butts, I used 3 bottles.

Pat the pork butt dry with paper towels, then apply half of the rub to the butt. Place the rubbed meat in a Ziploc bag and refrigerate for 8-12 hours.

I rubbed the four pork butts at 10:00am in order to begin cooking them at 10:00pm that same day.

Reserve the leftover rub for use later in the cooking process.

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Select The Smoke Wood

Oak, apple, or other fruitwoods compliment pork nicely, either alone or in combination. Hickory is a favorite, too, but can be quite strong if too much is used. In the past, I have used a 2:1 ratio of oak to hickory with good results.

For this cooking session I used hickory chunks, plus some leftover apple wood chips from the bottom of the bag. I used the equivalent of about 3 fist-sized chunks of apple, 3 of oak, and 1 of hickory--so a 3:3:1 ratio.

This single application of smoke wood is all that's necessary for the entire cooking process, and it will produce a nice smoky flavor without being overpowering.

I did not soak any of the wood before using it.

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Re-Rub The Butts

Just before you fire-up the cooker, remove the pork butt from the refrigerator and apply another generous coating of rub. Put the re-rubbed meat back in the refrigerator or allow it to sit at room temperature until the cooker is ready to go, it's your choice.

Reserve any leftover rub for use in the Southern Sop that's applied later in the cooking session.

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Fire-Up The Cooker

Light the cooker using the Minion Method. Fill the charcoal chamber almost to overflowing with unlit Kingsford charcoal briquettes. Bury several chunks of dry smoke wood in the coals and place a few chunks of wood on top. This should be enough fuel to fire the cooker for 12-14 hours, maybe longer depending upon weather conditions and how much meat is being cooked.

Light 20-40 briquettes using a chimney starter and spread them over the unlit briquettes and smoke wood chunks.

Assemble the cooker and fill the water pan from above immediately with hot tap water. Foil the water pan before use for easy cleanup. If you have the larger capacity Brinkman pan, use it.

Put the re-rubbed pork butt(s) into the cooker.

Set the top vent 100% open and leave it that way throughout the entire cooking session. Start with all three bottom vents 100% open. When the cooker temperature hits 200°F measured at the lid, set the three vents to 25% open. Allow the cooker to come up to 225-250°F, adjusting the bottom vents as necessary to maintain that temperature range.

For this cooking session, I filled the charcoal chamber halfway with briquettes, then distributed the apple wood chips, then filled the chamber almost to overflowing with more briquettes, then nestled the apple, oak, and hickory chunks into the unlit charcoal on top.

Since I was cooking four pork butts weighing a total of 25 pounds, which is a lot of cold meat, and I would be cooking overnight in cool, nighttime temperatures, I started with 40 hot briquettes to get the cooker temperature up more quickly than if I had used only 20 briquettes.

Needless to say, the charcoal chamber was about to burst its seams with all that charcoal and smoke wood, but somehow it all managed to fit!


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Barbecue The Pork Butts

Cook the pork butt at 225-250°F to an internal temperature of 190°F.

Turn the meat once after 8-12 hours of cooking. One turn should be sufficient for even cooking. If you prefer Paul Kirk's method of turning meat at the "halftimes", do it that way: Turn and baste the meat at the halfway point of the cooking process, then divide the remaining cooking time in half and turn and baste at that point, continuing until the meat is done. When you have an hour or less of cooking time remaining, stop turning and basting.

I turned these butts only one time, after 12 hours of cooking, and swapped the butts between the top and bottom grates.

For authentic "Mr. Brown", baste several times using the Southern Sop described below. Baste for the first time when you turn the meat for the first time, then as often as you see fit, but not more than once an hour. If you want to baste with something simpler, use apple juice applied with a spray bottle--I like Martinelli's Premium Apple Juice.

I basted these butts once when I turned the meat, then one more time after that a few hours later.

Replenish the water pan with hot tap water, as necessary. I started with a full Brinkman pan and did not replenish it at all during the cooking session.

The cooker temperature dropped down to 210°F by 8:45am, so I tapped the legs of the charcoal bowl to dislodge some of the ashes around the hot coals, and stirred the coals gently at 9:00am to further refresh the coals.

Later in the morning, it became clear I needed to add a bit more fuel to the cooker, so I fired 40 briquettes in a chimney starter and added them at 11:30am. This fuel carried me through to the end.

At 9:00am, the internal temperature of the pork butts was in the 170°F range. At 1:00pm, they measured in the 180°F range. At 2:00pm, the two smaller butts measured in the 180s when probed in several spots, and 195-200°F in other spots, so I removed them from the cooker. The two larger butts reached similar temperatures at 3:00pm.

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Baste The Meat

Here's the recipe for the Southern Sop.

Southern Sop
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Remaining Red Hot & Blue Rub (Important: See text below)
2 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup water
3 Tablespoons ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons table salt
1 Tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 Tablespoon paprika
1 Tablespoon cayenne pepper
Warm ingredients over low heat, stirring occasionally.

This recipe calls for using all of the remaining rub from one batch of Rub (maybe 3 tablespoons of rub). In my experience, it makes enough sop to baste up to two butts 3-4 times during the cooking process. If you're cooking three or four butts, a single batch will allow you to baste two times.

Apply the baste to the meat using a string mop (shown in Pictures 1 and 3), a turkey baster, or as a last resort, a basting brush.

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Hold The Meat For Serving

At a minimum, place the pork butt on a rimmed baking pan, cover loosely with foil, and let rest 30 minutes before slicing or pulling.

For even better results, wrap the pork butt tightly with aluminum foil, place in an empty ice chest, and hold until ready to serve. The meat will continue to cook for a little while because of carry-over heat, making the meat even more tender. More importantly, the extended rest results in moister meat, and the collected juices inside the foil will soften any tough crust on the exterior of the meat. The meat will remain safely above 140°F for 2-4 hours.

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Pull The Pork

After resting for two hours in an empty ice chest, I pulled all four pork butts. The meat was still very hot, so to protect my hands I wore thin knit cotton gloves (from the hardware store) covered with latex gloves.

Make sure to mix the pulled pork so everyone gets some of that dark, peppery, "Mr. Brown" outside meat along with the light interior meat.

The meat was dark and crusty on the outside, with a very nice smoke ring. The pork pulled very easily, and most of the fat had rendered, leaving very little waste during pulling. The meat tasted smoky and very peppery! Like I said at the beginning of this article, you've got to like pepper to like The Renowned Mr. Brown!

Here's the recipe for Carolina Red, also from Smoke & Spice.

Carolina Red
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1-1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup ketchup
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper or hot dried red chile flakes
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon table salt
Stir together all ingredients, dissolving the sugar and salt. Serve at room temperature.

Earlier I said that I started with 32.07 pounds of meat. I weighed all the pulled pork, and ended up with 12.88 pounds of edible meat. That's a 40% yield. I lost 22% to trimming before cooking, and 38% to fat and moisture rendered during cooking plus some fat and unsavory bits discarded during pulling.


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Store The Leftovers

Needless to say, there was a lot of leftover Mr. Brown! I used my Foodsaver to vacuum-pack the leftovers in portions and froze them to be enjoyed later or given as gifts to very special friends.

Vacuum packing prevents freezer burn, extends storage life, and makes for a very professional presentation when you share your barbecue with friends and family.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Southern Hospitality at Red Hot & Blue



BBQ in the south is part of the culture – inseparably linked to gatherings from friends and family to civic groups and business communities. At Red Hot & Blue southern hospitality is not an option. It’s an injunction. Everybody is family, and every gathering is a reunion.


Southern Hospitality means:


- you will be treated with kindness and respect

- you never walk away from the “dinner table” hungry

- friends and family are always welcome…the more the merrier

- there are no strangers…only friends we haven’t met yet

- you always have a choice of meats to go along with your “sides”

- there is always something sweet to finish off a great meal

- there is always an extra pecan pie or fruit cobbler in the fridge; just in case friends or family show up announced

- the host/hostess will do everything they possibly can to make you comfortable and happy while in “our house”

- you will be sent on your way with good memories and a little something extra “for the road”

It’s impossible to say “Southern” without smiling. Nothing puts a smile on your face like the words, “Southern Cooking”.

Sunday, November 2, 2008